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The coastal ocean extends from the land-sea interface where freshwater enters the ocean through rivers and estuaries to beyond the continental shelf. Due in part to its shallow and complex bathymetry ...
The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the...
A finite volume algorithm was established in order to investigate two-dimensional hydrodynamic problems. These include viscous free surface flow interaction with free rigid bodies in the case of large...
The long-term evolution of shoreface-connected sand ridges is investigated with a nonlinear spectral model which governs the dynamics of waves, currents, sediment transport and the bed level on the in...
Baroclinic instability of a circular current is modified by the presence of a unidirectional bottom slope. An analytical theory is developed for the slightly unstable flow regime over a weak slope. Th...
Two forms of a tw0-dimensional streamfunction solution for symmetric periodic water waves on a fluid with a vertical distribution of vorticity are presented. The magnitude of the vorticity varies line...
The finite-amplitude dynamics of baroclinic disturbances in currents whose cross-stream structure varies in the downstream direction is investigated. It is first shown under what circumstances downst...
Finite-difference techniques for irregular computational grids are presented. Successful simulations of transient normal mode oscillations in shallow circular basins, where analytic solutions are know...
Irregular grid finite-difference techniques lead to equations similar to those obtained using finite-element techniques. The simpler finite-difference equations offer the advantage of greater computat...
The finite-element scheme requires more computational expense because it is time-implicit and because it requires a smaller time step than the finite-difference scheme. Simulations of normal mode osci...
The linearized primitive equations for a barotropic world ocean are discretized by means of first-order, piecewise-linear finite elements. Surface elevation and Stokes/Helmholtz velocity potentials ar...
A finite-element numerical model is used to determine the interaction of tsunamis with the Hawaiian Islands. The model employs a finite-element grid which telescopes from a large cell size in the deep...
A finite-element solution technique is introduced to develop current patterns subject to geostrophic and Ekman dynamics for an irregular continental shelf region. The interpolation bases set of functi...
We consider the stability of a solitary wave packet of short gravity waves propagating in waters of moderate depth. It is shown that such wave packets are unstable to long transverse disturbances. The...
The finite-element method is applied to study the transient response of a locally generated tsunami. The model time-steps the linearized shallow-water wave equation over a variable mesh of triangular ...

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