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A Wave’s “Sweet Spot” Revealed
A Wave Sweet Spot
2017/7/24
For surfers, finding the “sweet spot,” the most powerful part of the wave, is part of the thrill and the challenge.Nick Pizzo, a Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California pos...
Abstract: Until now the analysis of long wave runup on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simu...
Using a Time-domain Higher-order Boundary Element Method to Simulate Wave and Current Diffraction from a 3-D Body
wave-current diffraction time-domain simulation drift force higher-order boundary element method
2011/9/9
To study wave-current actions on 3-D bodies a time-domain numerical model was established using a higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM). By assuming small flow velocities, the velocity potentia...
Nonlinear wave energy modelling in the surf zone
Nonlinear wave energy modelling surf zone
2009/11/16
Breaking wave energy in the surf zone is modelled through the incorporation of the time dependent energy balance equation in a non linear dispersive wave propagation model. The energy equations solved...
Permanent bedforms in a theoretical model of wave-sea-bed interactions
Permanent bedforms theoretical model wave-sea-bed interactions
2009/11/12
The interaction between sea waves and a deformable sea-bed is studied with a simple two-layer model in which the upper-layer fluid is inviscid and the lower-layer fluid is bi-viscous to account for no...
Statistical properties of nonlinear one-dimensional wave fields
Statistical properties nonlinear one-dimensional wave fields
2009/11/11
A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity surface waves is described. The model is designed as a component of a coupled Wave Boundary Layer/Sea Waves model, for investigation of small-scal...
Seasonal disturbance to mussel beds: Field test of a mechanistic model predicting wave dislodgment
Seasonal disturbance to mussel beds: Field test of a mechanistic model predicting wave dislodgment
2014/4/18
We report the first field confirmation of a mechanistic model predicting fine-scale temporal dynamics of wave dislodgment, an important disturbance process structuring many temperate rocky intertidal ...
Nonlinear momentum transfer from wind to wave has been studied on the basis of a perturbation expansion procedure. Two nonlinear effects are presented, namely the generation of higher harmonies of the...
Transient Long-Wave Response for a Multiple-Island System
Transient Long-Wave Response Multiple-Island System
2009/4/2
An interpretation of the tsunami response at the Hawaiian island of Kauai has been carried out utilizing simple geometric representations which include the three-island system of Kauai, Niihau and Oah...
A Statistical Method for Analyzing Wave Shapes And Phase Relationships of Fluctuating Geophysical Variables
Wave Shapes Fluctuating Geophysical Variables Phase Relationships
2009/4/2
A system of computational techniques was developed to detect a variety of structural features in geophysical time series containing turbulent or wave-like fluctuations. Individual probability density ...
Wave-Related Fluctuations in the Airflow Above Natural Waves
Wave-Related Fluctuations Airflow Natural Waves
2009/4/2
Simultaneous observations of wave heights and velocity fluctuations at two levels above the waves are analyzed to examine properties of the wave-related fluctuations in the allow. Results are obtained...
The Effect of Internal Wave Strain on Vertical Spectra of Fine-Structure
Internal Wave Strain Fine-Structure Vertical Spectra
2009/4/2
Vertical spectra of temperature perturbations are due to (i) internal wave displacement in the mean profile and (ii) fine-structure that would still be measured in the absence of internal waves. The f...
Tests on Some Programmed Numerical Wave Forecast Models
Numerical Wave Forecast Models wind-generated ocean waves
2009/3/26
Numerical forecasting of wind-generated ocean waves by digital computer may be attempted using any of three fundamentally different ways of describing wave generation and decay: empirical significant ...
An Experimental Study of the Resonant Instability of an Internal Wave of Mode 3 Over a Range of Driving Frequencies
Resonant Instability Internal Wave Driving Frequencies
2009/3/26
An experimental study of the stability of a progressive internal wave of mode 3 propagating down a long tank filled with a linearly stratified salt solution is conducted over the range 0.45ω3/N0.80, w...
Interpretation of Internal Wave Measurements in the Presence of Fine-Structure
Internal Wave Measurements Fine-Structure
2009/3/26
Philips has pointed out that the measurement of the internal wave spectrum and coherence in a stratified medium is distinctly altered when the profile contains fine-scale layers. Garrett and Munk demo...