搜索结果: 1-15 共查到“海洋科学 spectrum”相关记录34条 . 查询时间(0.337 秒)
The directional spectrum S(k) [or S(f,θ)] measures the distribution of wave energy in wave number, k, (or frequency, f) and direction. Different contributions to local wave energy, e.g., swell from di...
Ocean Sciences: Bridging the Millennia— A Spectrum of Historical Accounts
Bridging the Millennia Historical Accounts
2015/7/23
This book is based on papers selected and edited from those presented at the Sixth International Congress on the History of Oceanography (ICHO VI), held at Qingdao, People's Republic of China, from Au...
On a spectrum of nonlinear internal waves in the oceanic coastal zone
spectrum nonlinear internal waves oceanic coastal zone
2009/11/3
This paper studies the internal wave band of temperature fluctuation spectra in the coastal zone of Pacific ocean. It is observed that on the central Mexican Pacific Shelf in the high-frequency band o...
Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Ocean Waves Using a Cloverleaf Buoy
Directional Spectrum Ocean Waves Cloverleaf Buoy
2009/3/24
Analysis of the directional spectra of typical sets of surface wave data obtained in the open sea as well as a bay using a cloverleaf buoy system are reported.
It is shown that the directional wave...
Probability Distributions of Breaking Wave Heights Emphasizing the Utilization of the JONSWAP Spectrum
Breaking Wave Heights JONSWAP Spectrum
2009/3/7
An approximate determination has been made of the probability distribution function for breaking wave heights in the deep ocean. It was necessary to make simplifying assumptions of the joint distribut...
Measurement of the High-Frequency Spectrum of Ocean Surface Waves
High-Frequency Spectrum Ocean Surface Waves
2009/3/7
High-frequency spectra of wind-generated ocean waves were measured at an ocean research tower of Kyushu University using a fast-response wave recorder and an electronic differentiating circuit. Wind w...
A New Method for Measuring the Directional Wave Spectrum. Part II. Measurement of the Directional Spectrum and Phase Velocity of Laboratory Wind Waves
Directional Wave Spectrum Phase Velocity Directional Spectrum Laboratory Wind Waves
2009/2/23
A new method for measuring the directional spectrum, introduced in the preceding paper (Rikiishi, 1978), has been applied to actual wind waves in a large experimental tank 70 m × 8 m with the water 3 ...
A New Method for Measuring the Directional Wave Spectrum. Part I. Description
Directional Wave Wave Spectrum
2009/2/23
A new method for measuring the directional wave spectrum is introduced, and the usefulness of the method is examined through numerical analysis of synthetic wave fields. The principle of the method co...
The Statistical Evaluation of Directional Spectrum Estimates Derived from Pitch/Roll Buoy Data
Directional Spectrum Estimates Derived Pitch/Roll Buoy Data
2009/2/16
Estimates of the ocean wave directional spectrum may be extracted from observations of surface vertical acceleration and slope made with a pitch/roll buoy. The analysis requires the specification of a...
Nonlinear Contributions to the Frequency Spectrum of Wind-Generated Water Waves
Frequency Spectrum Wind-Generated Water Waves
2009/2/16
In the continuous frequency spectrum of wind-generated water waves Fourier components have different origins. At a particular frequency, some will be harmonies resulting from the nonlinear profiles of...
Observation of the Power Spectrum of Ocean Waves Using a Cloverleaf Buoy
Power Spectrum Ocean Waves Cloverleaf Buoy
2009/2/16
The power spectra of typical sets of ocean wave data obtained in the open ocean using a cloverleaf buoy are analyzed to determine an idealized form for the spectrum of ocean surface waves. It is shown...
A Study of the Growth of the Wave Spectrum with Fetch
Wave Spectrum fetch consecutive wave buoys
2009/2/10
The development of the wave spectrum with fetch in a steady wind has been studied with a line of consecutive wave buoys in the Bothnian Sea in 1976 and 1979. The relationship that was found between di...
A Composite Spectrum of Vertical Shear in the Upper Ocean
Composite Spectrum Vertical Shear Upper Ocean
2009/2/10
Results from three separate velocity profilers operated nearly simultaneously in the northwest Atlantic in 1975 are used to form a composite shear spectrum over vertical wavelengths from 100 m down to...
On the Theory of the Equilibrium Range in the Spectrum of Wind-Generated Gravity Waves
Equilibrium Range Wind-Generated Gravity Waves
2009/2/5
It is shown that an exact analog of Kolmogoroff's spectrum in a random field of weekly nonlinear surface gravity waves gives a spectral form for frequency spectra S(ω) ω−4 in close agreement wi...
A Data-Adaptive Ocean Wave Directional-Spectrum Estimator for Pitch and Roll Type Measurements
Ocean Wave Directional-Spectrum Estimator Type Measurements
2009/1/21
A data-adaptive directional-spectrum estimator is developed for “point” measurement systems such as the pitch and roll buoy and slope array. This estimator, unlike the much employed unimodal cosine po...