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Weakened wind patterns likely spurred the wave of extreme ocean heat that swept the North Pacific last summer, according to new research funded by the National Science Foundation a...
The Southern Ocean is key to Earth’s climate, but the same gusting winds, big waves and strong currents that are important to ocean physics make it perilous for oceanographers.Instead their job is inc...
A Wave’s “Sweet Spot” Revealed     A Wave  Sweet Spot       2017/7/24
For surfers, finding the “sweet spot,” the most powerful part of the wave, is part of the thrill and the challenge.Nick Pizzo, a Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California pos...
Over the past few years, a large fracture has grown across a large floating ice shelf on the Antarctic Peninsula. The world is watching the ice shelf, now poised to break off an iceberg the size of De...
A recent study of past disturbance of the oyster beds in New York Harbor led by geoscientist Jonathan Woodruff and his doctoral student Christine Brandon of the University of Massachusetts Amherst is ...
Surface current observations from high-frequency (HF) radar have revealed that not only are the low-frequency and tidal currents resolved by the measurement, higher-frequency motions are also containe...
The directional spectrum S(k) [or S(f,θ)] measures the distribution of wave energy in wave number, k, (or frequency, f) and direction. Different contributions to local wave energy, e.g., swell from di...
Nearshore and inner shelf dynamics are forced principally by radiation stress gradients induced by shoaling and breaking waves. Waves in shallow water refract due varying bottom topography. Thus the w...
On any given day Naval vessels travel the world's oceans, nearshore exercises take place, and at times, real operations occur where lives and equipment are in harm's way. Accurately predicting environ...
Since the end of the Cold War, the US Navy has had an increasing interest in continental shelves and slopes as operational areas. To work in such areas requires a good understanding of ocean acoustics...
This article reviews the prediction of wind-generated surface gravity waves over the world ocean by the US Navy. The numerical wave model WAVEWATCH III® is used operationally for this purpose at ...
A new coupled ocean-wave model has been developed and tested as a new component of the Coupled Ocean/Atmosphere Mesoscale Prediction System (COAMPS®). The modeling system is comprised of the Simu...
Climate change became real for many Americans in 2012 when a record heat wave affected much of the United States, and Superstorm Sandy pounded the Northeast. At the same time, a less visible heat wave...
A new small wave rider called Surpact was developed for air-sea investigations. It was designed to attach to a drifter or a mooring and to float upon the surface waves in order to measure sea state an...
The sun inputs huge amounts of heat to the ocean, heat that would stay near the ocean's surface if it were not mechanically mixed into the deep. Warm water is less dense than cold water, so that heate...

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